How to fix squeaky stairs

Squeaky stairs are up there as one of the most annoying home inconveniences. They’re loud, a tad embarrassing and can cause worry. 

But how do you fix them?

In this how-to guide, we’ll talk you through everything you need to know about squeaky stars. From causes to solutions, Wonkee Donkee has got you covered. 

Please note: Any technical information provided on this website is only intended as a generic guide, we would always advise you contact a local building professional for advice on specific issues.

For technical advice on Richard Burbidge parts specifically, please contact Richard Burbidge on 01691 678 300.

What are the causes of a squeaky staircase?                   

There are a few different causes of squeaky stairs, but the main causes are the shrinkage of the timber treads over time, along with general wear and tear.

Treads can start to rub against the top of the riser causing a squeaking or creaking noise. 

If you’ve had your staircase for a long time, the adhesive that originally used to bind the treads and risers together may also have failed.

These problems are very common in staircases - it doesn't necessarily mean there’s something seriously wrong with your stairs, it’s just something that comes with age and heavy use. 

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There are several methods of addressing or even eradicating the squeak in your staircase.

In most cases, the best results are obtained by repairs from the underside of the staircase. This is not always feasible as sometimes the underside of the staircase is blocked off.

It is, however, possible to repair the staircase from above.  

There are three main methods of tackling loose treads from the front - the Wonkee Donkee have put them below. 

 Solving the squeak from above the stairs

1.

Secure with screws

The best method of securing the treads to the risers is to screw them down. 

In most cases, three screws per tread should be more than sufficient. 

Drill pilot holes through the tread and in line with the riser. 

We recommend using No.8 x 38mm (1 7/16") countersunk screws. These offer the most appropriate drill hole and limit the risk of them becoming loose over time. 

Ensure that the screws are countersunk below the surface of the tread. You can use a countersink bit if necessary. 

Some screws are ribbed under the head and will cut their own countersink. If you’re unsure, test on a piece of similar scrap timber - this limits the risk of accidents during the repair process. 

If the staircase is to be left exposed (i.e. no carpet) it is wise to use an appropriately coloured wood filler to conceal the screws. This can make the whole thing look a lot sleeker, so you don’t have to worry about having a staircase that looks incomplete. 

For a more professional finish, use a Plug Cutter and Screwsink set to properly disguise the countersunk screws. This process is detailed below:

A set of two Plug Cutters and screwdiggers for No.8 and No.10 countersunk woodscrews.

As listed on our Wonkee Donkee Tools website.

As listed on our Wonkee Donkee Tools website.

You will need a block of timber that is of identical type, colour and grain as the tread.

Use a plug cutter to route out a woodplug with the same diameter as the screwsink.

The woodplug is formed in the block and now needs to be cut out.

Use a thin chisel to "chip" out the formed woodplug as shown.

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Now, using a screwsink (or screwdigger), drill out the pilot hole for the countersunk screw, through the tread into the top of the riser.

Screw the countersunk screw into the top of the tread and through into the riser.

With the tread secured, cover the hole left by the screw with the plug you produced earlier. Cover the base and sides of the block with wood adhesive. Make sure you align the wood grain of the plug with the grain of the tread.

Leave the glue to dry for a few hours, then, using a sharp chisel, slice off the bulk of protruding woodplug.

Finally, sand the rough top of the woodplug until it is perfectly flush with the top of the tread.

For MDF treads and risers, a slightly different approach is needed. 

Pre-drilled pilot holes are not required when screwing into MDF when using special

ly designed MDF screws. Unlike ordinary screws, MDF screws are designed to be used without pilot holes, so will not split the MDF board, creating a much smoother finish. 

. 

Using ordinary screws designed for Hardwood or Softwood can cause the MDF to bulge and eventually split.

The secret of the MDF screw lies in its structure; a serrated thread allows it to cut cleanly through the board without bulging or splitting the wood:

2.

Nailing Loose Treads.

One of the simplest repairs is to nail two nails (or more if needed) into the centre of the edge of the tread, where they meet the riser as shown below. This gives the tread more stability, reducing the risk of it becoming weak and therefore squeaky over time. 

Note: The "dovetail" arrangement in which the nails are inserted gives the nails a better grip on the wood.

Take care not to split the wood or pierce the edge of the riser with the nails, as this can damage the whole tread, and could mean purchasing a replacement. 

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3.

Using A "Moulding" Or "Quadrant".

If a loose riser or tread is found, it is also possible to glue on a "moulding" or quadrant". The length of moulding can be glued either at the top of the riser, the bottom of the riser or both. 

Here at Wonkee Donkee, we recommend that you pin the moulding to both the riser and the tread, for extra stability.  

This method is used as a more aesthetically pleasing alternative to simply nailing or screwing the treads and risers together, but it does require a bit more precision work. 

If the staircase is exposed (no carpets) it is recommended for aesthetic reasons to add these mouldings to all of the stairs - not just the squeaky ones. This makes the staircase as a whole, look a lot more uniform. 

Solving the squeak from underneath the stairs.

If, on the other hand, the rear of the staircase is accessible, more effective repairs can be made to the stairs.

Using the methods below ensure long-lasting results, so you won’t have to re-do any repairs any time soon. 

1.

Glue Blocks.

A successful method of strengthening the joints between riser and tread is to use "glue blocks". These are triangular shaped small wood blocks, which can be made easily by sawing a square block in half down the diagonal. 

Four small pilot holes are drilled into the block at right angles to each other, as shown below:

The glue blocks need to be placed near each corner (and one in the middle on wider staircases) where the tread meets the top of the riser:

Install the glue blocks with the help of these three simple steps:

Firstly apply some PVA glue to the glue blocks. It is important to move the glued block back and forth to rid of any air pockets within the glue.

Place the glue block into position as shown and screw in the securing screws.

Remember to use MDF screws if you have MDF treads and risers.

Taking care not to push the screw through the tread or riser, carefully screw in the securing screws. If you have someone to help, get them to stand on the tread whilst you drive in the screws - this makes the tread much more stable and reduces the risk of it slipping.             

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Alternatively, glue and screw string blocks (small rectangular blocks of timber) to the corners of the stairs to secure the treads to the strings. These can be used in addition to the glue blocks to give added strength and rigidity.

The principle of string blocks is essentially the same as glue blocks, but they are used to fix the ends of the treads to the strings. 

The screws are fixed at right angles to each other, one pair boring into the bottom of the tread and the other pair into the string. 

The Wonkee Donkee team recommend that the blocks are glued and then moved back and forth on the surface of the tread and string before screwing - this eliminates air pockets in the glue, guaranteeing a long-lasting result. 

2.

Replacing Worn Or Missing Wedges.

If the staircase is built into a housed string system, it most likely contains securing wedges for the risers and treads. These wedges would have been placed in the staircase when it was originally constructed, so it’s just a case of updating the old ones for wedges that are more robust. 

They are used to butt the risers and treads up against the mortises of the housed string so that no gaps are visible between the strings and the treads and risers. They don’t just add stability, they also create a sleek finish to your staircase. 

The drawing below summaries this:

Over time and extensive use of the staircase, the wedges can slip or become damaged. This can also lead to the dreaded "creaking" or "squeaking".

A slipped or damaged wedge can normally be spotted if there is a gap showing on the staircase between the tread and/or riser and the string mortise:

If your staircase isn’t covered (with carpet), check your wedges for gaps regularly, especially if you notice any squeaking. This can be a good initial indicator of any damage.                                   

If possible, inspect the rear of the staircase for loose and damaged wedges. Gently remove all damaged wedges with a chisel. 

To fix this and prevent any further damage, inject adhesive into the mortise and coat the replacement wedge with adhesive. Use a mallet to gently drive the wedge into place. 

3.

Insert Small "Slip" Wedges.

When it comes to staircases, most people think the full set needs replacing if anything goes wrong. But this isn’t the case. 

You can get individual staircase parts for when one part fails, but the rest is still functional and looks the way you want it to.                                                           

A quick and simple method of effectively tightening the joints between the tread and riser is to insert small "slip" wedges into the joints.

The way in which these wedges are inserted into the joint will depend upon the type of joint that connects the tread and risers.

Each wedge should be about 30mm long and tapered down from 3mm to a point. Apply wood adhesive to the wedge, and insert according to the following joints: 

Once the adhesive has dried, use a sharp chisel to trim off the ends of the protruding wedges. This creates a smooth and professional finish that lasts.