Step 1 - Measure your stairs
Measure the distance between the inside faces of the newel posts (ND), and the stair pitch (see below), and enter these into the Wonkee Donkee calculator. This will give you the size of the panel you will need as well as the quantity and the bracket positions. (The height of the handrail is determined by the panel as shown later)
Step 2 – Measuring stair pitch
Measure the pitch of your staircase.
You may use the printable protractor to do this.
There are other methods of measuring your stair pitch - including measuring tools and also “Apps” for your phone/tablet that can be used. Whichever method is used, ensure that your reading is as accurate as possible.
Step 3 - Mark & cut baserail to size
Place the baserail on the stairs so that it runs parallel to the string. Make a vertical mark on the side of the baserail at both ends where it meets the newel bases. Using a handsaw, cut the baserail to length.
Mark baserail vertically along the newel post
Step 4 - Position baserail
Loosely put the baserail into place, making sure that it is lined up centrally to the newel post and parallel to the string edge.
Do not screw anything down at this stage.
Step 5 - Attach connectors
Undo the nut located under the cover (marked with a logo) and separate the two parts of the bottom handrail connector. Fix the handrail part of the connector onto the handrail and secure with the two screws provided.
Place the other half of this connector on top of the bottom newel post but do not screw into position at this stage.
Slide the top handrail connector over the top newel post, and again, do not screw into position.
Step 6 - Prepare battens
To aid the fitting of the handrail, cut two lengths of batten so that each end is at the same angle as your stairs, and the length of each is 778mm.
Use an adjustable bevel to transfer the stair angle to the battens.
On one of the battens, screw a 20x120mm offcut 30mm from the end as shown. This will aid bracket alignment later.
Step 7 - Position battens
Place the two battens vertically (using a spirit level) and spaced apart, on the baserail. You will need someone to help you at this stage.
Rest the assembled handrail on top of these battens to give the finished height of the handrail.
Step 8 - Position handrail
Re-assemble the bottom connector, but do not tighten.
With the handrail resting on top of the battens, position the top connector so that it is lined up with the handrail. Use a pencil to make a mark on the handrail just shy of the connector hole depth.
Tip: place masking tape on the top of the connector and mark on this the depth of the 54mm diameter hole. This will make it easier to determine where to cut the handrail.
Step 10 - Mark centre position handrail
Separate the two parts of the top connector in the same way that you separated the bottom connector.
Making sure that the handrail part of the bracket does not move, secure with the two supplied screws.
Lower this onto the newel post part of the connector and re-assemble.
Step 11 - Secure connectors to newel posts
Temporarily place the two battens near the newels as before, ensuring that the handrail sits correctly on the battens and that the battens are vertical.
Finally, secure the top connector to the top newel post and the bottom connector to the bottom newel post using the supplied screws.
Remove the battens.
Step 12 - Measure & mark spindle positions
Using the Wonkee Donkee calculator figures, mark the positions of the bracket centres on the baserail. Note that these marks indicate the centre position of the brackets.
Make sure that you measure from the newel base and that the tape measure is flush with the top of the baserail. If not positioned correctly, the tab on the end of the tape measure will lift the tape off the baserail and cause errors in your marking out. See next step for details.
Step 13 - Using the tape measure
With the handrail in place and in the wall bracket, make a mark about 5mm in from the inside face of the newel post as shown.
Step 14 - Drill pilot holes
Using the marked hole positions, drill a pilot hole using a 3mm drill bit to a depth of around 25mm. Drill an additional pilot hole central to the width of the baserail and 12mm from the bracket fixing hole. This will be used later to secure the baserail to the flooring. Space these under each bracket and always 12mm from the bracket fixing hole. It does not matter whether it’s to the left or to the right of the fixing hole. Make a pencil mark by this hole immediately after drilling to identify it later as the baserail fixing hole.
Step 15 - Drill baserail fixing holes
Identify which of the pilot holes are for fixing the baserail, and, using a 5mm drill bit, drill ONLY the baserail fixing hole. Drill all the way through the baserail. Repeat until all the baserail fixing holes are drilled.
Using a countersink bit, countersink the hole to accept the screw so that the head of the screw is flush or just under the surface of the timber. This is to prevent the screw from fouling on the bracket.
Secure the baserail to the floor using No 10 x 45mm (5x45mm) countersunk screws.
Step 16 - Fix brackets to baserail
Line up the centre of the bracket bases with your marks on the baserail and secure using No 8 x35mm (4.5x35mm) screws. The brackets consist of two parts and will need separating before installing.
Step 17 - Fix brackets to handrail
The brackets on the handrail should line up vertically with the brackets you have secured to the baserail. Using the batten (with the offcut 20mm timber attached) and spirit level, rest the bottom end of the batten against the bracket. With the batten vertical (spirit level) place a bracket on the underside of the handrail and up to the offcut attached to the batten. Mark the position of the fixing hole using a bradawl. Repeat for the other bracket positions, finally fixing in place with No 8 x35mm (4.5x35mm) screws.
Step 18 - Insert glass panel
Ensure that all brackets are secure and in line with each other vertically and horizontally.
Place a of 20mm block of timber against the newel base, and two blocks on the baserail to rest the glass on. Check that the rubber gaskets are in place on the brackets and carefully offer up the glass, resting it on the 20mm timber.
Step 19 - Secure glass panel
Insert additional 20mm timber blocks between the glass and handrail to ensure that the handrail is sitting at the correct height. If required, use frame packers to adjust the height until it meets a minimum of 900mm from the finished floor to the top of the handrail. Check the distance between the glass panel and the newels and adjust the panel position so that it lies centrally. Finally, secure the glass panel in place using the clamp part of the bracket.
Step 20 - Secure connectors
Continue until all brackets are securely holding the glass in place.
Repeat the procedure for any additional panels you have.
Finally, using the supplied screws, secure the Fusion connectors to the handrail and newel post.
